I think it was Sunday that I started to put on YD#10 and found that the elastic had come untied. Tonight, the computer being down, I pulled the elastic out, put it back, and tied it very carefully. There were plenty of gaps in the stitching of the casing.
&& 2025SEW1.HTM -- copy to Pictures of Tools
[pictures] A frightfully-clever case that I improvised out of a greeting card to protect a needle threader. The two flaps fold in to keep the threader from falling out: roll it up, secure with a paper clip. Every few months I'd find it in the arm of the futon and wonder "what is this?"
Today I was darning a sock at the kitchen table, and had a terrible time re-threading the needle after weaving it into the sock. Don't I have a needle threader in the arm of the futon?" Yes, but I still had a terrible time persuading the short end to enter the loop of the threader. Finally I managed to rake it through with the point of my SuperSnips, being too lazy to get up and fetch a more suitable tool.
A long time after I made this case, my dentist prescribed fuzzy toothpicks. Every hundred days, I get a beautiful little case meant for ten toothpicks and just right for carrying a few needles and pins. All my other threaders were in plastic cases, and now this one is too. But it's not back in the arm of the futon; I put it into the snack bag of darning wool. Perhaps I'll add it to the go bag of hand-sewing tools when the darning is done.
The home-made case will be sent to the land fill as soon as I photograph it.
The computer is still down. Makes me nervous that I don't know how to back up this file.
The fabric samples arrived today. The mid-weight hemp looks as though it would do for the bras, and the hemp summercloth might do for the jersey, but of course I have to wash the samples to be sure. The summercloth will do only if it shrinks a bit.
Seems to me that "summercloth" used to be coarser.
I have decided to iron a brakerchief and zig-zag the samples to it before washing. That will keep track of them, and also measure how much they shrink. Pity the linens are out of stock.
I found time today to clear off the ironing board, iron my muslin cap, iron my white collar T-shirt, and press an interfacing patch on a torn pattern and hang it back up. I don't know just where it fell from.
Oops. Forgot to iron a brakerchief while the iron was hot.
No church on account of ice. I plan to take all the patterns off the wall and put them back in order, fileting out those required for the linen jersey.
I have carefully considered the swatches and selected #HWM, Hemp Woven Medium. Essex doesn't wick as vigorously, and Summercloth is an ounce heavier. All of them make round spots like cotton instead of wicking along the threads as linen is supposed to do. Perhaps that is the result of spinning it on cotton machines.
But I'm going to check for linen before sending in the order. Changing the entries from "out of stock" to missing entirely doen't look as though they expected to find more soon.
I checked that I have all the pieces of the woven- jersey pattern and looked around for a good place to lay them out to see how much 53" fabric I need when I remembered:
In the notes for the cotten jersey: "fabric: 42" x 4 yd yellow cotton (25" left over, three and a half feet long on the side where I cut away a front yoke.)"
So four yards of white hemp should be worlds aplenty. And I think I have some pre-made calculations for the bras.
[checks Web page]
Says that I can get up to three bras from a bias strip that is 57" along the selvage.
A bias line that begins at one corner of a piece of fabric would end the width of the fabric from the other corner. 53" + 57" = 110" = two inches more than three yards.
But that calculation assumes that the straps don't interlock, and there will be some fabric left over from the jersey -- perhaps conveniently near bias.
Let's check the yellow-linen jersey notes.
They are spread out all through 2019, but I did find this entry:
30 March 2019
[snip]
But I have established that I do, indeed, have worlds of fabric. I think I could get this shirt out of three yards, and I have four.
No mention of buying the fabric. No mention of how wide it was. I got three bras out of the scraps. I think I took notes while making the bras -- perhaps even pictures.
Wakeful in the night, I found this entry:
23 May 2018
I hauled down the tulip-print scraps with an eye to making timer pockets for T shirts.
After Dave went through much fuss and feathers to get me a virtual credit-card number, I ordered four yards of Fashion Fabric's yellow linen to make a new summer jersey. It says it's suitable for pants, so I have hope that it's not sheer and flimsy. Dithering about buying it paid off — it's on sale at three dollars off until Memorial Day. A tad over ten dollars a yard, with shipping, and the original price was twelve something. (Sale price nine something.)
end quote
Still no mention of the width -- but I probably still have the invoice!
Yep, in the box with the scraps. Together with a note saying that it was 52" x 4 yards 8". That's probably after washing.
It made a jersey and three bras, and a lot of scraps big enough to be worth saving, so five yards of 53" hemp should do me even if it shrinks ten percent. That's 47.7" and the yellow cotton was 42".
I intend to cut all the pieces, put them into a box, and make bras. I'll probably need to concentrate on finishing one bra once I get them all cut out. I'm taking the old ones off and putting them on very, very carefully.
Time to start a file for the project blog, but I'm still trying to piece the Web site together.
57" one end
56 1/2" 'tother end (surprisingly stretchy)
four yards and forty-one inches drawn thread to drawn thread.
Too tired to write tonight. Fabric is in washer, hot with Tide pod. Will wash again, hot with a clug of ammonia, then dryer dry.
58" measured along drawn thread -- and it's still wrinkled from washing. This does not compute.
Other end 58 1/2", but I think I pulled a little more.
Four yards and thirty-one inches from drawn thread to drawn thread. This, at least, makes sense.
I got a bit garden-pathed when I found a copy of Bulldog Drummond Strikes Back while looking for linen scraps. There appears to be no black at all in the linen box, but the pant-weight linen box is mostly black, and it's not all coarse.
I think I'll leave cutting the black parts until I've made at least one bra.
Past time to make a diary file for this project. I haven't finished straightening out this file yet.
12:32
It took the whole morning to finish ironing the five yards. (But I did have a dely starting because DH was working on my computer and I couldn't get to the outlet to switch the ceiling outlet from dimmer switch to surge suppressor.)
The fabric is a tad wider than the ironing board, which left me with no place to put the iron. The cord wouldn't reach to a stool placed at the end of the board. I coped by advancing the end opposite the current location of the iron, ironing a spot large enough to set the plywood and iron on, then advancing the rest. This moved all the extra fabric to the former iron location; I folded and unfolded a wide cuff for dampening and ironing.
Like linen, hemp must be not just damp, but downright wet to iron well. When I draped it over the board to air, I found that some of the first bit I ironed wasn't ironed at all. I shall deal with this by starting to cut at the other end. Once the jersey is off the piece, the remainder should be much easier to iron.
Cut the back out an put it in a folder made from a large corrugated cardboard box and put it under the bed. Must take it out before the home helper vacuums tomorrow.
I started a blog, but don't feel smart enough to update it.
The front pattern is a tad higher than the front- yoke pattern and the fabric is just wide enough to cut one of each.
I've been making entries in 066, but it's still a disorganized mess. I drew a second thread from the straightening line I haven't cut along yet because washing made the mark harder to see. I cut a scrap to be the top of my new do-rag. The rectangle I intend to cut the back pocket from was just enough wider than the back pocket to make that reasonable.
066, is still a disorganized mess, but some progress is recorded.
Some sewing today: when dressing this morning I found that the elastic in both of the remaining pairs of yellow briefs had come untied.
I repaired them in the evening. #12 was easy, because I'd been forethoughtful enough to mark the stitches to be taken out by darning a bit of embroidery thread into the wrong side of the hem, and my needle stash inclluded one with yellow thread already in it.
On #11, I had to hunt for the spot with magnifying glasses, and it wasn't easy to find the thread to be taken out, but both are back in the drawer. I used square knots again because weavers knots are bigger, but I pulled and wiggled thoroughly to make sure they were tight.
I secured the thread only by hiding the end inside the zig-zag stitches, and beginning before and ending after the gap.
Is there a word for overcasting when it's not done over an edge? Well, it does hold the edge of the hem flat, so I guess it was overcasting.
All hemp pieces of the jersey are in the folder and under the bed. I cut out the side of the front yoke to be cut from the main body, but only labeled the scrap from which I intend to cut the other side.
I made holes for marking the dots aligning the seam with the front and the dots marking the corners of the pockets. I poked holes with a brass knitting needle, shaved off the turned-up paper, poked again, shaved again, then enlarged the holes by repeating the entire sequence with a #0 knitting needle. Came out just the right size to twist a wash-out pen in.
I shaved by holding the razor blade
Also took some pictures of the remaining fabric, showing which way the bias lines for the bras should slant.
I got two bias lines drawn yesterday. Today I tried the bra pattern on the bias line nearer the cut end. Lining the hemlines on the bias line wastes some fabric, but lining the dart seamlines doesn't quite fit. I think I just designate the "wasted" fabric as where I cut my bias tape.
I may cut the band of the do rag there too; I don't thing the rag cares which grain its on as long as it's on one.
Yesterday, I finally sewed the snap of the flannel nightgown, then ran the nightgown through a delicate cycle and hoped it would dry before I wanted to put it on at nine. Turned out that at nine I was in Lutheran's emergency room trying to nap in a straight-back chair, and I don't feel like sewing today.
I can get three bras from one bias strip, and since I hand wash a bra every other night, three will suffice, so I think I will put the rest of the fabric away for future projects. There will probably be less than a yard on the shorter side. The edge of the scrap will be on the true bias, so it will be easy to cut more binding if the wasted fabric isn't enough.
Long time me no write. There have been some entries in the bra/jersey blog, but that has also been neglected -- I threaded the sewing machine yesterday, but didn't find time to say so. I've realized that I have to grok the openings for the elastic in the bra bands before sewing the darts, so that I'll know which side of the seam allowance to trim. I think I'll put the openings on the "public" side, as && puts it, to maximise the linen between the elastic and my skin.
I spent considerable time yesterday picking at the very low-priority job of ravelling off the bottom tier my orange dress to make it into a slopping-around shirt.
While dressing for a ride, I discovered that my "fleece lined" tigghts are indeed two layers, and there was a hole in the saddle area of the outer layer. I baseball-stitched the edges of the hole together in hope that it would keep the hole from getting bigger.
One end of the hole was a slit, and the mend is holding that part well. The end closest to the seam pulled away into a roundish hole, and will need some buttonhole darning. I could use a water-soluble darning egg for that operation!
I've been darning the white socks in my go bag. Good project for random occupation -- white on white allows merely good light, complex enough to keep my mind off what I'm waiting for, but doesn't require any bran power. One sock is ready to wear, the other is one needlefull away. (I'm hoping I don't finish it soon!)
I unvented a couple of tricks while working.
The wool is too fat to go through the eye after folding it over the needle to make a sharp bight in the usual way, but if I wet the end of the yarn and roll it between my fingers for a while, it usually felts stiff enough to go through straight. A few times I have resorted to pulling the thin end of the yarn through with a loop of sewing thread.
The sewing thread found another use. I like to weave in the frayed end instead of cutting after weaving and leaving a blunt end to poke out. It is difficult to thread a needle after weaving it into the cloth even when the end is long enough to take hold of. I've probably thought of this before, and it's certainly known to the world at large: I fold a piece of sewing thread in half, thread it into the needle, weave it in where I want the yarn to go, and pull the yarn through with with the loop.
The loop wants to snag the yarn at its base. I let it until I've pulled it small enough to resist the motion of the yarn a little, then put the needle between the loop and the yarn and gradually pull the yarn until only the end is caught, tightening the loop at intervals.
Though this darn is coarser than previous darns, it was difficult to catch enough fabric when making a buttonhole stitch. Before sticking it in, I pushed the needle back against the top of the stich below the stitch I was working into. Sometimes I slanted it backward a little to catch more fabric, which felt like the way one sweeps a hairpin from backward to the direction it's to be pushed.
Finally resumed work on the bra. Tried sewing with the bobbin thread.
Continued at the Jersey Blog C:\RUFFTEXT\ROUGH066.HTM/e
A few days ago I started to put on my black briefs, noted that they were too loose, laid them on the ironing board, and forgot about them. The evening I found them on the floor, took them to the window, found a gap in the stitching of the casing, pulled on the elastic, the knot prompty appeared, I cut it out, retied the elastic, and put the briefs back into the drawer without mending the gap.
Hmmm.... is that my drawers drawer?
I at least thought about the bra today, but moved a volunteer fern instead.
I did some sewing on a day when I was too busy to write about it: I stuck a safety pin into my garden pants.
I put it where I thought I'd need a bar tack to keep my cell phone in a too-shallow pocket, and it works. I'll probably work a woven bar to replace it sometime today. I have the kakhi thread out to shorten Dave's new cotton-linen pants.
4:37 p.m.
Finished Dave's new pants before leaving for eye exam. Tried them on this evening; I may buy a pair for me when I wear my current garden pants out -- plenty of room for a cell phone, and wouldn't need to pin my garden knife to the pocket. Loose fit means plenty of room in the hips. I'm not crazy about the drawstring, but could replace it with elastic.
Still too dilated to work on bra. Could change the thread on the Necchi back to white.
I was weaving in the end of the last needle of thread on the socks I'm darning when called to get my skin examined. I've put them in my attaché case for today's trip to Dave's oncologist.
The dime dropped when I was preparing for my eye exam on Wednesday: I transferred what I would need for this appointment into my attaché case and left the grab-when-there-is-no-time-to-think stuff in the car.
Oddly, the attaché case is quite heavy, but the go bag doesn't feel lighter.
A bit of sewing: I'm washing sweat pants to put them away for the summer, and they have two tapes to tie below my knees, attached by two brass safety pins for securing the ankles. I want to wash the tapes too, but there are no pillow cases in this load -- ah, the house shirt has a large pocket, and there is a needle with basting thread on a strip of wool hanging from one of the spare shelf brackets. Messy knot at the beginning, a few short stitches at the end, some well past the hem of the pocket, in the single layer of the shirt.
It looks as though I might get to put a stitch into the desperately-needed new bra today.
18:18
Too many Must Be Done Right Nows, and I didn't even pick the asparagus.
Still light, brief hiatus
One of the hills is done producing, and must be allowed to grow leaves. Still more than we can eat.
I forgot the tape in the pocket, and it twists a bit. I straightened it in the middle by dragging it over the chair back I dried it on, but the ends twisted up again.
I did make the buttonholed bar to secure my phone in the pocket of my linen-cotton garden pants. There was a threaded needle in the khaki bag, but when I sat down to use it, I thought the thread too feeble, and switched to 100/6. There was also a threaded needle in the 100/6 bobbin box. I hope Thursday's eye shot makes pre-threaded needles less important!
'Taint the eyes; at one point I could quite clearly see the thread dodging around the eye. Finally took my own advice, pinched the thread between thumb and forefinger with the end barely showing, and lowered the eye of the needle over it. Pushing the needle down between the fingers left the fingers gripping the thread to pull it on through -- no trying to tweeze a millimeter of thread with my nails.
Found a note reminding me that I'd re-darned my fuzzy tights on 7 May. On 10 May, I tucked in an end that had worked loose. No longer remember the enlightening details, save that sweeping the needle back and forth obviated the need for a darning egg between the layers.
This morning, I put a recently-emptied pill bottle into the non-metal box box, and threw five push- and-turn bottles into the recycle bin.
It seemed to me that all of my yellow briefs wanted mending, but when I put briefs into my go bag to work on in the hospital, I discovered only one hole and one broken seam. The seam was worn enough to require skill and patience, but the hole responded to baseball stitch. I secured the thread only with small running stitches before and after, to reduce the odds of tearing the fabric.
On a previous occasion, I put a freshly washed slopping-around shirt into my go bag intending to mend a hole in the pocket, but by mistake took a shirt that had been on the to-do hook waiting for me to add a timer pocket to make it into a sloppiing-around shirt. So I hand-hemmed the sleeves, when zapping them with machine zig-zag would have been more appropriate. On the next excursion, I took the slopping around shirt.
I'm out of portable hand sewing.
And there is always some reason that I can't resume work on my new bra. The one I wore yesterday has disintegrated; perhaps I'll have to work on it in the evening, when I'm stupid.
Did some work on the bra Tuesday, and also ironed a shirt and ironed squares of sleazy-thin woven interfacing to two patterns that had fallen off the wall. One hanging hole had torn through, and the other was thinking about it.
It was very hard to make hanging holes with a paper punch. I used to have a die that one hit with a hammer, but spoiled it over sixty years ago. I imaagine that they are still being made -- if only I knew what they are called.
I picked the basting and bad stitches out of the bra during stupid time yesterday, as reported in the Jersey Blog.
C:\ED.DIR/E C:\RUFFTEXT\ED.DIR/E
For raw content see: http://wlweather.net/Pcw/2023SEW1.HTM sewing diary http://wlweather.net/Pcw/2023SEW2.HTM sewing diary http://wlweather.net/Pcw/WEBLOG2.HTM list of changes to site For *really* raw content see: http://wlweather.net/Pcw/blogsew.txt
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