When the work is done, tie the end of the thread to the beginning, in a square knot. Tie off from the wrong side and hide the knot under a ring (or a chain) as best you can. In the simple wheel, make the last space of thread match the others.
If the medallion is to be used in appliqué, leave the tails long enough to draw through the cloth to the back. If the thread is fine in proportion to the cloth, the tails may be used to sew the medallion down. If the thread is too coarse to draw through, or if the medallion is to be used independently, one of the following finishes must be used:
For the least-visible finish, the ends can be whipped to the back of the ring (or chain) with a sewing needle and fine thread -- it will take care, because #10 thread is the finest thread on which this finish can be used. For the simple wheel, it's better not to whip the ends except when you use very coarse thread.
Whether you whip the ends or not, the medallion must be thoroughly wet and thoroughly dry before the threads are cut short. Any starching, stiffening, pressing, or blocking intended should also be done before trimming the tails.
Trim whipped ends close to the whipping; cutwork scissors will allow the least-visible trim. Cut loose ends between one-eighth and one-quarter inch from the knot; if you were careful how you laid the threads while the medallion was pressed, they will naturally lie behind the ring on the wrong side. If both sides are to be seen, the ends can be stuck down with laundry starch or glue; if they are slightly frayed and then smoothed into place, only close inspection will reveal them.
For exhibition-quality work, draw the ends inside a chain or ring by means of a loop of hair, sewing thread, or dental floss. Prepare for this by working over a doubled thread with the loop left hanging out. If two ends have to be concealed in the same chain, work over two loops which exit the chain at different points. See "End Disposal" in the Encyclopedic Index for details.
On to Exercise 4f: Pressing Tatting
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