Drawing a Thread: When woven fabric cannot be torn neatly, it is cut along a thread. In some plaids, checks, and coarse weaves this is easy, but for most fabrics, the thread must be drawn first. A drawn thread may be removed entirely, or it may be shifted or tightened to make it visible. Threads in printed fabric usually show up best when shifted. The distraction of the print makes it hard to see where a thread is missing, but one that is shifted, or merely tightened so that it rolls a bit, will show up plainly. In many fabrics, a tightened thread is almost invisible, but a missing thread shows up as a conspicuous thin streak. In some fabrics, a tightened thread will show up plainly as a ridge or shiny streak, but not even a powerful magnifying glass will reveal a missing thread. In some fabrics a tightened thread doesn't show plainly enough to use as a guide, and a missing thread can be seen only by transmitted light. Sometimes slipping a white sheet of paper under the cloth will show up the thin streak, sometimes cutting with the fabric against a window will work, sometimes you have to pull out more than one thread. (At least the second thread is easier to get out than the first.) Sometimes I will hold the fabric against a window and stroke a sharp #2 pencil down the thin streak to make a mark I can see when the cloth is on the table. Examine your fabric and do what is suitable. I find it easier to cut along a drawn thread with the rolling knife called a "rotary cutter" than to cut precisely with scissors. The rolling knife allows you to cut very slowly while inspecting the work very closely. (If you are myopic, remove your glasses and use your built-in magnifier.) If cutting with scissors, put the part you intend to keep on the left side of the scissors, where you can see it. (Lefties on the right, of course. Watch out that your "left-handed" scissors are a true mirror image of right- handed scissors; merely reversing the handle loops does not make scissors left-handed. Because of the sideways forces on the scissors, the blades must be reversed as well.) To draw a thread, first snip the fabric as if intending to tear. Tease out one thread, and pull it gently, pulling back on the fabric with the other hand so as to pile it up in gathers. Parenthesis: To start drawing in the middle of the fabric, or when you don't want to snip the edge, pull up a thread with a needle, corsage pin, or stiletto. (In the rest of the thread-drawing discuussion, when I say "pin", I mean any long, thin implement with a sharp point.) When you want to pull a thread at a particular mark on a ruler, stab a pin straight down at the mark, then remove the ruler and pick up a thread with the pin. End parenthesis. Pinch the fabric with your right (favored) hand to keep the thread from pulling back in, and stroke the gathers to the left (the other way). If the gathers fade out before reaching the other edge, pull out more thread. If the thread snaps, pull out the loose end and look for the end still in the fabric, or leave the thread in and look for the break. (Depending on whether the thread is more conspicuous in or out.) Holding the fabric between yourself and the light may help you to find the end. (Magnifiers are discussed under "threading a needle".) Pick the thread up with a pin, and resume pulling. A pair of eyebrow tweezers is very handy at this time. The broken end will be weak, so ease it out of the fabric gently. If the other edge is a selvage, the gathers will pile up when they reach it. Snip the selvage cautiously along the tight thread. You will probably cut the tight thread when you snip, which will allow the gathers to flatten out. If you don't, break the loop of thread with a seam ripper. Push all gathers off the end of the broken thread. If the thread is sufficiently conspicuous now, cut the fabric. If it is not, stroke more gathers across the width until you have removed the thread entirely. When you want the thread out entirely, it is easier to draw it out in short pieces. You can snap a thread by pushing gathers to the place where you want the thread to break, then grasping firmly on each side of the gathers and pulling them straight. Then draw out the end you were pulling, and hunt for the broken end with a pin. In many fabrics, hunting for a broken end is tedious and frustrating. In this case, push gathers beyond the place where you want the thread to break, then pull up the tight thread with a needle. Secure the needle by weaving it through the fabric, then check that you have the right thread by pulling the previous end to see whether the loop tightens; the secured needle will prevent you from losing it. If you have the correct thread, hold it by the needle and push gathers away from it until you have enough thread to take hold of, then snip the loop on the side toward the old end, and pull the old end out. If the thread is more conspicuous in than out, and if you have to pull yards of it, instead of pulling out more thread when the first packet of gathers fades out, look to see where the thread ceases to be conspicuous. About an inch from the end of the conspicuous part of the thread, pick up a loop with a pin, then hold the loop with the pin and stroke gathers away from it until you have enough loop to take hold of with your fingers. (If you use a magnifier for this purpose, stick the pin into the fabric beside the loop before you put the magnifier away, so that you can find the loop after the sudden shift in perspective.) Pull on the leading side of the loop until you have another packet of gathers, then continue stroking gathers to the left, leaving the loop to dangle. Repeat as many times as needed to mark the desired length. In crepe, finding a broken end is extremely difficult, and finding the taut thread to pick up a loop of it is impossible. In this case, one must exercise great caution to avoid breaking the thread. Don't pack the gathers too tightly together, don't try to move too big an installment of gathers, don't try to move the gathers very far before shifting your pinch, don't try to leave the fabric entirely flat and pucker-free between packets of gathers. To cushion your grip on the thread, pinch a pleat into the trailing edge of the packet of gathers -- this means that you'll lose a few gathers off the trailing edge of the packet every time you shift your grip, but the second packet to come through will pick up as many gathers as it drops, so this won't slow the work much. Pulling a thread through fabric slicks back its fuzz, so it slips more easily in that direction. If you pull a thread back and forth, it will be harder to pull, and it will fray more rapidly, than when it is pulled in one direction only. The shorter the thread, the easier it is to draw it. If you have never drawn threads, practice by cutting scraps of cotton print into two-inch, three-and-a-half inch, and six- and-a-half inch squares to make into a quilt. (This assumes quarter-inch seams, which makes each square a half inch smaller than the sum of the squares sewn together to make it.) You don't have to worry about actually making the quilt, as it will take decades to accumulate enough squares by cutting up scraps too small to use for anything else. Or you could make a patchwork vest or skirt. This will provide lots of practice with very little anxiety -- the material is worth nothing, and the result is *supposed* to look funny. Another plan is to cut all your scraps into narrow strips of the same width, then piece them into striped yardage. Either exercise is very calming in times of stress. (Drawing threads is particularly good at calming anger: instead of counting ten before you hit somebody, cut ten quilt squares. If the offender is still around, just draw lots of squares and cut them later -- fiddling with knives and scissors in that mood might not be wise.) --------------------------------------------------------------------- EOF